I haven’t been in Chicago long enough to have been to Berghoff, the beloved and recently-closed German restaurant that had been in business since Leif Ericson explored the North American coast. Herman Berghoff sold his beer at the World Colombian Exposition and opened his place in 1898, the year of the Spanish-American War.
The Berghoffs retired and closed their restaurant, but a fourth generation Berghoff opened a few new concepts in the original space, at 17 West Adams Street and State. One of those concepts is 17/west, a contemporary German restaurant open for lunch and dinner.
The bar area, which allows smoking (as well as portly, bespectacled, gregarious/bitter men), has an incredibly long bar, but there are plenty of tables around it, too, in case you want to hold your next board game club there. I would say there are even more tables at the far end, but there was a large gathering of men in their 30s obscuring the view. They could have been running a dog fight betting circle, performing surgery, or working on a maths proof they drew on the floor with chalk. But probably none of those things. Regardless, the bar has weekly appetizer specials from 2:30-6pm and drink specials all day, including steins of Berghoff Draft on Monday and Tuesday, a flight of bourbon on Wednesdays, veggie quesadillas, cheese pizza. Gregarious/bitter man recommended the artichoke apetizer, but that’s not one of the specials.
The bar was busy, but the dining area was not. The diners there were almost all boomers, and there were quite a few in their 60s. The atmosphere is masculine clubby/medieval (no, really), with a lot of wood in caramel and walnut tones, tobacco-colored leather on the chairs and long benches, and a huge amount of stained glass. The smell, and I know you’re asking, is of sauerkraut. The music is instrumental, mellow jazz, and since I’ve been hearing mid-1990s frat bar music wherever I go, it was a pleasing aural respite.
There are large stained glass windows all along one wall. Most of the windows have a wine and grape motif, but there’s one, inexplicably, with a lobster. My dining companion, a professional sea monster photographer, thought the lobster should have a top hat. I would like to see it with a tap cane, but I doubt that customer modifications to 100-year-old stained glass windows are welcome. It would be more correct if the lobster had night vision goggles on, because a lobster’s jointed feet have sensors that allow it to hunt in the dark. Give the top hat and tap cane to the male codfish (it’s a dancer).
We weren’t impressed with the food. My pot roast with mashed potatoes and vegetable mix was okay, but I think my sea monster-photographing companion was more dissatisfied. They had the halibut, which was topped with lentils. We gave the restaurant a 3 on a scale of 5 for the food on their survey card. Their wine menu should be expanded, especially with a crisp, dry Riesling. 17/west should be embarrassed to have just one (and on the sweet side), when there are so many excellent German Rieslings. We both had the pinot noir, which was approachable, and for dessert, we shared the pecan caramel chocolate gateau, which was very good.
We liked the service: Chivo (what a great name) was obsessive about refilling the water, which he did with a single-minded intensity, and Brad, our waiter, was attentive in the right measure, easy-going, with a good sense of humor. As for his humour, I would say that he’s sanguine and maybe a bit phlegmatic. Chivo, hard to say. He’s an inscrutible man.
I’ll probably go there again, because the place has has been there since the Battle of Tours (okay, since Dewey defeated the Spanish fleet in Manila Bay), and I love that. Also, it would be a good, low-key place to go if you want to eat alone, at least on weekdays.